RESTAURANT REVIEW: UZZURI DELI, JANPATH

For a quick bite. Maybe.

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Intrigued by what the talented team behind Uzzuri Bar and Grill was cooking up at their new deli in Janpath, I bounced over to my favourite partof town with a lot of expectations and an empty stomach. What followed was a bit of an anti-climax.

LOOKS LIKE

The interior decorator’s done a good job but the space appears structurally unsuited for use as a restaurant. The ground floor sinks below pavement level and nags you with that unventilated feeling you get in basements. The absence of windows and natural light exacerbates this and contributes further to some pretty unsavoury smells that I hoped weren’t coming from the kitchen. I went back again after I first wrote this review – unsavoury smells still there. Try to get a seat on the upper floor.

TASTES LIKE

I’ve always understood Uzzuri’s strength to lie in their meat and so skipping over any option with a green leaf beside it on the menu, we settled on –

  • Smoked Salmon Blini served with Crème Fraiche and wafer thin Onion Rings;
  • Mutton Meatballs with Honey and Soy Glaze with fresh Yoghurt and Cucumbers;
  • Grilled Chicken Breast with spiced Vegetables and Parsley Pilaf; and
  • Cajun Tenderloin.

The steak was well done but well done despite my enthusiastic companion’s energetic requests for medium rare. The meatballs were mediocre and hadn’t really absorbed the honey soy glaze. The grilled chicken was … well, how exciting can grilled chicken really get? The only thing that caught my attention was the fresh and punchy Salmon Blini.

FEELS LIKE

The staff was courteous and prompt and I recognized a couple of servers from their GK II outlet.

All in all, I expected more from the Uzzuri guys. I don’t have any major complaints and may stop by to grab a sandwich if I’m in a rush but all the while wondering why they’re not doing as good a job as they can. Come on guys, put your backs into this – you’ve come too far to go back to the middle of the road.

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